16 Different Ways Of Being Complicated

Highly esteemed watchmakers Vacheron Constantine have a legacy and heritage of over 250 years of interrupted watchmaking. No other watch company can claim this fact because it is forever imprinted in history. Since 1755 Vacheron Constantine has stood for excellence, tradition, and superb craftsmanship. While most watch companies after World War 2 were severely affected by their factories getting bombed, and as a result not being able to produce watches, in some cases till almost 100 years later. Vacheron Constantine Geneva Born Fine watchmakers were an exception to the rule because of their resilience and commitment to their craft, were able to produce the finest and most sought after timepieces in the world.

To mark this legendary accomplishment, in 2005 Vacheron Constantine Celebrated their 250Th anniversary by making the most complicated and expensive wristwatch in the world! They came out with the most ferocious complicated wristwatch. The Tour D'lil which stands 47 mm made out of 18k rose gold, with double sided dials with sixteen complications, 8 on each side. This watch consists of 834 individual parts and took over 10,000 hours of design work. The Tour d'Ille won the L'Aiguille d'Or, top honors at the 2005 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve. The watch also bears the Geneva quality hallmark. It is named for a historical site of Vacheron Constantin located next to the current Maison Vacheron Constantin on the Quai de l'Ile.

The retail of this watch in 2005 was !.5 million dollars, and because there will only be 7 made for the world the watch is commanding as much as double it's initial retail. To buy this watch you had to put down half a million dollar deposit, you would then wait till the watch was completed, then be flown in to Geneva where you would be greeted by Mr. Charlie Torres CEO and President World Wide of Vacheron Constantine, where you would pay the remaining balance and be presented this masterpiece by Mr Torres. Now, how is that for ultimate opulence?

So just how complicated are we talking about? Well, lets see, the watch features Hours, Minutes, Subsidiary Seconds, Repetition (qtr, mins), Tourbillon, Power Reserve of 58 hours, 2nd Time, Moonphase, Moon Age, Striking Torque, Perpetual Calendar, Equation of Time, Sunrise, Sunset, Sky Chart. The bezel is fixed, and believe it or not this complication is not even a little bit water resistant, I mean for !.5 million dollars you would think you could slip and slide with it, for me I wouldn't wanna get this visual wet dream wet. I guess there is always a Swatch Scuba for $50 bucks if you want that.

Just when you think it couldn't get any cooler, it does because, the watch bears a secret Signature at 12 o'clock (1755 - 2005). The winding stem has 2 positions. The second time-zone & moon-phase are adjusted using 2 correctors recessed on the side the case. The perpetual calendar can be adjusted using 3 correctors which are also recessed on the side of the case. The sidereal disc can adjusted using a lockable push-button and crown. The watch can be worn only with the finest chocolate brown crocodile strap that is thickly padded for robust durability and refinement.

I must say though, this watch has won critical acclaim from almost every watch magazine, major news papers around the globe, it was even featured as the number one opulent toys on VH1. There is no question that this watch has made history, broken records, restored their image, paid homage to all the traditional elements of master watchmaking by having the balls, and being the first to show how there are sixteen different ways of being complicated in one wristwatch!

pic courtesy of www.vacheronconstantine.com

Superwoman Meets Squadra

Since I am a vintage kind of guy, I like things old school,especially when it comes to music. Accomplished Singer, Song writer, and Actress Alicia keys isn't exactly my first choice in my taste in music, but I have total respect for her style and passion for her craft which she does so effortlessly, with that old school flair. She shares my same passions of music, women, and now watches.

In her most recent video entitled "Superwoman" Alicia Keys picked out the new ladies Jager Le Coultre Squadra to wear, which is every bit as timeless, innovative and modern as her music. This video depicts femininity on different scales where Ms Keys plays different Characters such as an Astronaut, A Modern Day Business Woman and A Mother, which is completely brought together by the modern classic design of The Reverso Ladies Sqaudra with it's two sided swiveled case design.

The watch worn by Alicia Keys in this video is the new stainless steel Reverso Sqaudra with Mechanical Automatic movement, with silver guilloche dial with black Arabic numerals, date at 6 o'clock on one side and on the other side displayed through a sapphire see through case back, the complexity of all 214 finished parts, which is the heart and soul that makes this watch sing. In addition the watch features a 42 hour power reserve, water resistants to 50 meters, and tested for 1,000 of quality control, and finally tastefully fitted with an elegant white croco strap with a deployant buckle evoking ultimate femininity. This is great accomplishment for JLC to be linked with such an amazing talent as well as being the hit Icon in the video demonstrating the mechanics behind the watch ensuring timeless heritage and gaining a new audience for years to come.

In this world for women, where diamonds and glitter are status quo, I must say it is a nice refreshing change to see such a well respected brand with so much history has finally been able to break the perception and be represented properly, where a modern day Superwoman Meets The new JLC Sqaudra, inspiring women all around the world and being the voice of a generation!

pic courtesy of www.jaeger lecoultre.com

ITS ABOUT TIME FOR HISTORY!

Hey People, I don't know if you can tell by now that I like to give a history lesson every Sunday about Brands and how they started, as well as who is behind them. Today I want to discuss LVMH which stands for Louis Vutton, Moet & Hennessy which was merged in 1987. This being the largest luxury goods conglomerate in the world as well as a french holding company. This company is controlled by Bernard Arnault who is the Chairman and CEO of LVMH which is in part owned by The Christian Dior Group, which Mr Arnault is also The Chairman and CEO of.

Today the group operates a total of more than sixty luxury brands ranging from Wines & Spirits, Fashion & Leather Goods, Perfumes & Cosmetics, Watches & Jewelry and Selective retailing. Last year in 2007 this incredibly super power luxury group generated an estimated 25.87 billion dollars and employed roughly 72,000 people world wide. The most impressive part is out of that Louis Vutton accounts for an estimated 12 billion dollars of that, and there leather isn't even that good but what a marketing money making machine!

So what has this got to do with watches? Well, the watch brands in their portfolio, though only a few, are very important brands with a history and the spirit of passion. The watch Brands include, Zenith, Tag Heuer which is the number 2 brand worldwide after rolex, Louis Vutton, Dior, Chaumet watches and jewelery, Fred watches and jewelry and just newly acquired this April 2008, Hublot which has really helped legitimize their watch division, even though though I think they are unoriginal with their ever so popular Big Bang which is a complete rip-off of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Not to detract from the watch division, eqaully important as far as jewelry goes you couldn't get a better partnership than LV and the biggest site holder for diamonds in the world, De Beers. The partnership between the two luxury giants developed in November 2002, De Beers international stores have grown to 22 locations the world over from Paris, London, New York and Beverly Hills to Tokyo and Dubai.

So just when you think that LVMH known as the leader of Champagne, Handbags, and jewels like anything they take on best in what they do with money and tightly controlled distribution, their commitment and intense passion for collecting the best watch brands in the world and making them the most successful rockstars is not to be underestimated for a second!

logo pic courtesy of www.lvmh.com

Diangonal & Functional

Watches with Chrongraph functions today can all look the same after a while, there are very few that autonomously stand out from the rest. A great example of one that totally has its own personality and makes a statement is the ultra modern Manometro Chronograph.

The Manometro Chronografo is the latest in chronograph's that are laid out in the most modern and inventive way without looking like a cheap toy. The watch was introduced at the Basel Fair now 2 years ago and the first of it's kind to have the subdials on a diagonal plane. The dials are available in two flavors, cream with silver subdials, which to me looks like an original tire pressure gauge or black with silver subdials. The case is a polished 45.3 mm stainless steel case and the push buttons for the chrono are recessed on the opposite side of the case and are hidden for the ultimate in subtle gadgetry and ergonomics, while the screw down crown on the right side of the case at the 2 o'clock position is the master control of operating the time and ensuring water resistance! The self winding movement is modified with a Dubois Dupras Chronograph module to achieve the technical challenge of having the subdials on a diagonal work flawlessly with accuracy. The magic behind this watch like all Manometro instruments is that the lugs are hidden underneath the strap for comfort and design, separating it from their competitors and putting them in a class of their own.

My critical eye towards new brands is usually very harsh and at times not very accepting. I have worn many watches of the best watch houses all over the world and I will say that this is one that I am truly impressed with, because of the price point which is roughly $7,000, The Design, The Exclusivity, The comfort, and The Passion injected in creating this brand is one that I can relate to becuase it's very rare to see, proving that the Manometro Chrono is Diagonal and Functional at the same time.

pic courtesy of www.giulianomazzuoli.com/watch

Commemorating A Legend!

Tag Heuer has always been known for making a very sturdy, sporty, inexpensive watch in the past. I always associated them with Frat Boys and Porn, especially the watches they make with bracelets,ah! puke. In any event, in the last 5 years the brand has managed to gain serious momentum with the likes of their Spokes People around the world, and developement of their product to something far greater. Since I have an old soul, I will always gravitate towards vintage. Though I have won many Tag Heuer watches over the years in sales contests, I have always found myself selling them immediately and not wearing them, because I feel they lacked something, until I found myself intrigued with the oh so MOD, Tag Heuer Monaco Gulf watch limited edition for 2006.

This watch is a throwback to the watch worn by Steve McQueen in the 1971 cult racing film Le Mans, where he was responsible for bringing car racing to Hollywood. The watch he wore actually was a stainless steel Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph with a blue dial and silver subdials. To commemorate the partnership with Tag Heuer and Steve McQueen in 2006 Tag Heuer produced The Gulf Monaco.

This is a 40 mm stainless steel chronograph watch with a square case and a silvery white dial with blue and orange racing stripes, which as you can see from the pictures is quite similarly laid out in the colors of the Piping on the racing suit of Steve McQueen, as well as the Colors Of Gulf. The watch has a two registered Chrono very cool silvered luminescent hands, and a contrasting orange chronograph hand for legibility. The gulf logo is above the six o'clock position, giving the feel of a real racing watch, despite it looking awkward and cheap. The strap is a dark blue croco with contrasting silver stitching to dress this watch up for for more formal occasions. Even though I would never wear a Tag Heuer except a vintage Steve McQueen Monaco, this exception to the rule has a vintage feel with that subtle taste of Commemorating A Legend!

pics courtesy of www.tagheuer.com

A Taste Of What's Next

This one Goes out to a good friend of mine in NYC who has been dying to see a picture of this watch because I have been talking about it for like over a year now. He is a huge fan of watches and only buys the best sound investments and has no time for bullshit! So last year if you were a Panerai dealer in the US, a select few from each dealer were invited to this Panerai training in NYC last August, for most it was really informative, helpful and a great resource, which for me was not as challenging because I know the brand backwards and forwards because of my passion for the brand. At the same time I do have to say if it weren't for that training I wouldn't be writing this particular article because I learned something new.

There is no secret that the stainless steel Radiomir Case inspired by original early designs have evoked that vintage spirit and is the reason why it has been the hot watch for Panerai of late, especially in the stainless steel 47 mm case. They have proven to be reasonably priced when officially released and hanging onto them and watching them grow quickly in price almost double of their original price is just incredibly exciting. I will have to admit that this years SIHH was a bit disappointing and boring especially with Panerai, with the exception of the 322,309 and the 26 of course. Now that SIHH is rocking out in January instead of April, I think there is definately some things in the pipeline to get the blood flowing like wine to get that much needed Panerai Bonner.

One of the pictures shown last year in NYC at the Panerai training, has been permanently tattooed in my mind was this early 47 mm radiomir with a very unique dial,this dial of course being the original was that cool vintage grey with hash marks and dots as hour indicators which looks really cool because it looks like a sandwich dial as the dots and markers are luminescent. The watch was equipped with a mechanical movement and finished with a really cool cashmir calf strap that you could tell had like been through war because it was distressed at that time. Even though Panerai has not confirmed or denied that this will be produced I am pretty sure that they were giving us a taste of what to expect next!

pic courtesy of wwww.paneristi.com

ITS ABOUT TIME FOR HISTORY!

Ok, people as you can see I am a little partial to IWC because of how much I adore the brand because of their history and commitment to innovation combined with traditional values. I remember selling this brand when it was nothing like 17 years ago. Very few people new about it and the ones who did were like from another planet. In the US it was a very small company with maybe like 4 employees operating out of Virgina. They were yet to be bought out by Richemont and they had ridiculous growing pains in terms of distribution quality control and product development. I always appreciated that it was the best watch you could buy and the only one who new about it was the person wearing it. It was and is subtle understated and highly technical and very well priced for what you got. The attention to detail like the dials, the hands, the bracelets, the cases and movements are probably the best finished in the industry made for every day wearability.

IWC was founded by Mr. F.A. Jones in 1868, who was a watchmaker and engineer from Boston. While the masses were flocking to the west for growth and opportunity at that time he did the opposite and went to Shaffhausen which is located on the German side of Switzerland on the border of both countries. At that time Shaffhausen was the hub of engineering and Mr Jones set out to teach watchmaking to combine with engineering that is the very core ideal and fabric that is IWC, which stands for International Watch Company. The goal of Mr Jones was to combine the two elements of incredible Swiss watchmaking and technical engineering to achieve manufactured movements and watch parts for the American Market.

The blatant reality he was up against was harsh in the beginning and is the reason he went to Shaffhausen. In the beginning when he first went to Switzerland to the area of Geneva and the secluded areas of the valleys in the Jura mountains in the western part of Switzerland
to try and accomplish his goal, but because the highly skilled people in that region feared that they were going to loose their jobs and totally looked at Mr Jones as someone who was invading their land, it looked like an impossible dream turned into a nightmare for Mr Jones.

Because of the resilience and belief in his vision it wasn't until he met Johan Henrich Moser who was also a watchmaker and industrialist who had a vision and had built a hydrostation in Shaffhausen that was powered by the river Rhine. The opportunity presented itself for Mr Jones because Mr Moser had no takers and this was the catalyst that prompted Mr Jones to go to Shaffhausen in 1868 and IWC was born. Following the birth of the brand, in 1875 the construction of a new premises and today what is now IWC headquarters right on the banks of the River Rhine which currently employs a little bit over 190 employees.

In 1899 IWC rolled out there first wristwatches for the watch market and In 1915 they Incorporated their first design of the 75 movement caliber for wristwatches. The next 30 years thereafter paved the way of what is being manufactured today by IWC starting in 1936 with the launch of the first "special Pilot's watch" with specs like an anti-magnetic movement as well as a special arrow indexed rotating bezel which was used for noting take-off times.

Three years later in 1939 this was followed up by the refined ever so clean introduction to the Portuguese collection, where there were two importers from Portugal who ordered a lot of large wristwatches with highly precise pocket watch movements. IWC answered all prayers and demands by in 1940 they developed what is possible today one of the most iconic bold watches in the world with their ever so stealth Big Pilots Watch 52 T.S.C featuring a central seconds hand.

Then in 1944 Albert Pellaton assumes the role of technical director of IWC, and a brand new watch for the military first used by the British Army The W.W.W which stands for the Watch, Wrist, Waterproof is debuted. Two years later in 1946 this was followed up by Mr Pellaton's first movement design showcasing central seconds hand which was very well received because of superb accuracy. IWC stunned and amazed when the first automatic winding mechanism was launched in 1950 designed by Mr Pellaton replacing the early tradition reciprocal gearing and was cleverly patented proprietary development by the brand.

Since there was a huge demand for divers watches IWC answered the Public by launching the Aquatimer family in 1967 which became the standard for professional divers because at that time the unheard of water resistance to 20 bar as well as an inner rotating bezel which could be worked by a second crown which very useful in timing dives.

IWC Shocks and amazes the world again in 1980 when they produce the world first chronograph in titanium in collaboration with F.A. Porsche who is responsible for the design of this watch, and becomes light years ahead of their time and influences an entire design aesthetic revolution for other watch companies to follow.

In 1985 IWC stays perpetually technical with the innovation of the DA Vinci which was the first Chrono to be combined with a perpetual calender function that is laid out for the next 500 years and can only be adjusted with a single crown, and was the only perpetual to display the four digit calender year.

Never afraid of technical challenges, IWC starts to experiment with the use of zirconium oxide in 1986 for their new watch case material which is made out of a completely unbreakable scratch resistant material.

1993 was the 125Th anniversary of IWC. To celebrate they launched an extremely rare limited series Of the Portuguese watch and in essence was able to restore the tradition of huge calibre, very precise timepieces.

The Sports Elegance line of watches were unveiled in 1997 and were know as the GST line.

The ultimate force in legendary divers watches was launched in 1999 when IWC unveiled its mechanical depth gauge known as the Deep One which was the first of it's kind the world had seen and today has become a symbol of pure technical genius.

The year 2000 marked the importance of two very significant things for IWC. First they were acquired by luxury giant Richemont, and they were able to develop the 5000 calibre movement which worked on the Pellaton automatic winding System which continually ran for 7 days non stop when worn and had a 7 day power reserve indicator which has become the standard in house movement for all large wristwatches made by IWC.

Lets just say 2002 was the year that solidified my confidence and faith in the brand and probably the turning point that has catapulted the brand into a super league by launching The Big Pilot's Watch at SIHH in Geneva featuring the seven day in house movement and restored and set the example for oversized pilots watches.

From this point on, have been absolute golden years for the brand. In 2004 IWC relaunches the Aquatimer Family, In 2005 they introduce after 50 years The comeback by introducing the Ingenieur in three different variations. 2006 came with face lifts galore with bigger case sizes and dial treatments of 5 classic pilots watch designs including The Big Pilot and larger versions of the Chrono Automatic by three millimeters. Last year in 2007 IWC presented The Da Vinci completely redesigned with a new engine with an in house calibre movement as well as the Da Vinci Perpetual Calender Kurt Klaus Edition commemorating the man behind the calender as well as his Jubilee with IWC.

Today as we stand for this years SIHH the brand launched the Jubilee Vintage Collection showcasing six watches in Platinum in a set of 140 pieces for the world packaged in a steel and leather bound trunk that is just as vintage looking as the watches spanning the history of 140 years of innovation, passion, and technology. So, besides Boston being known for the legendary sports teams that have so much nostalgia and legends, the one that withstand the the true test of time literally is IWC!

logo pic courtesy of wwww.iwc.ch

Technical Restoration

I have to admit, I very rarely change my mind how I feel about something when I look at it, especially when it comes to watches I always pretty much know if I love it or hate it! Recently I had one of those moments where I was pleasantly surprised.

I had made up my mind up about the brand Wyler Geneve, thinking "Oh it's all been done before", "there is nothing original or innovative about it" "It's a transsexual watch, a cross between a Panerai and Bell & Ross I thought". Then I went to this amazing watch shop in London, which is the first to carry Wyler Geneve in the UK and actually looked at it and tried it on and I was absolutely blown away! This watch has heart, soul and innovation all wrapped up in one, which is constructed and finished like any of the finest high end cars today.

Wyler Geneve is actually an old Swiss brand that was started about 100 years ago by Mr Paul Wyler. Roughly 10 years later Wyler who partnered up with a very successful Milanese businessman Mr. Innocente Binda to promote Wylers mesaage of making watches that could worn for every day use, and because of the synergy between both these men Wyler became an Iconic brand known to every household in Mr Binda's hometown.

The innovation on Mr Wylers part was Materfull Brilliance. It wasn't until the Italian world Cup Soccer team in 1934 where Italy were really the first recipients to realize the importance of the Wyler Incaflex Watches. Incaflex was an amazing simple genius move where Mr Wyler became world renowned for, by in 1927 unveiling a balance wheel which became The Standard in the watch industry because it severely reduced the effects of shock and at the same time helped maintain and improve everyday accuracy. This was achieved by making a balance wheel out of a single metal piece which had two flexible symmetrical arms that were spiral which acted as shock absorbers and were joined at the center of the wheel. To show off how durable these watches were, a simple test was organized in 1956. Two timpieces were dropped 1,000 ft from the top of the Eiffel Tower in Paris France, where the notary republic that was documenting this event,approved that both timepieces despite the severe landing were in perfect working condition, which proved that the Wyler Incaflex balance wheel was a clear indication of a technological breakthrough within the watch industry.

With the rebirth of the brand today the Wyler Chronograph is the latest in design, innovation and materials available in the market and still very much keeps the philosophy and integrity of what made the brand famous to begin with. Aside from the function of the hidden incaflex balance wheel the watch is much more modified with a shock absorbing function which is integrated into the watch case and makes it completely unique,iconic, and different from its predecessor. This watch case is 43.5 mm and is built like the suspension in an automobile where the watch case stands alone exposing the design and robust frame while the watch movement itself is protected inside a water resistant container made out of titanium ensuring durability and accuracy. The self winding chronograph movement can be maneuvered and adjusted by the crown that is encompassed by a rubber circle which is very reminiscent of a tire can be visibly seen through a sapphire caseback and has a a 42 hour power reserve, while the chronograph counter of hours and minutes are visibly clean,concise and well laid out. The rubber mesh strap is incredibly comfortable and well made making this an everyday watch.

I mean shit! aside from the obvious of how well put together this watch is in every way from finish to design to the composits used I would buy this watch for the packaging alone. Let me tell you I have never seen packaging like this in a watch in this price range. The Leather bound box is a beautiful caramel color that is hinged and every bit as technical as the watch, this presentation box is stitched and comes with a travel pouch and has a hidden compartment underneath to fit straps and jewelry providing swank and luxury. I mean I like the chronograph but the GMT pictured in my opinion is a much more useful complication and doesn't just serve as a visual because lets face it people more than half of you out there don't even know how it works but love the way chrono's look. So I will say looks can be quite deceiving and like anything in life and In this case Wyler its all about the subtle details that gives this brand technical restoration!

pic courtesy of www.wylergeneve.com

Master Wanker

People, I just don't understand what the hell is going on with regards to shady activity within the watch industry. I mean you have one of the alleged greats in watch making like Franck Muller who is an incredibly gifted pioneer in the watch industry and is known for being the king of the touneau shape watch, who is also known as the master of complications. Looks like Mr Muller a couple of years ago had a little bit of a drug problem. OK, here is the thing whatever you do in your private life is your business, but when it gets to a point it becomes public it becomes a serious problem. Mr Muller went to court and became involved in a huge dispute with his business partner over the right to using his name as well. As a result he lost serious credibility, devalued his product which became available at discount bargain basement shops for like 10 cents on the dollar.

Franck Muller has never really been my pint of beer, but I have always had a mad amount of respect for the way he has cleverly made use of the elements of traditional watchmaking in designing his own watches like the Master Banker, Long Island and Casablanca which have become his icons. Franck Muller started his watch company in 1992, and made history when in the same year was able to produce the most complicated wristwatch in the world. The only problem is that you have to spend an obscene amount of money to get a movement that has some sort of complication which are very well designed and finished, but ultimately its becomes completely valueless, because of the real lack of demand and dirty distribution.

Ironically enough Mr Muller falls into the category of a catch 22 situation, in that his brand recognition and credibility is going down the tubes daily, and is loosing mad amounts of respect from collectors worldwide, but at the same time there is no other brand who is known for and been able to master the touneau shape case the way he has in the last 16 years. If he doesn't clean up his distribution and wants to regain his position of power as a dominant force in the industry, and be taken seriously again, I personally feel the he must change his image, and reinvent himself using his real talents of innovation, passion, drive and focus, soon! otherwise he will always be known as a master wanker!

pic courtesy of www.franckmuller.com

ITS ABOUT TIME FOR HISTORY!

So, Who is the hottest watch luxury group in the world? Well, I think in terms of prestige, exclusivity, aesthetics and craftsmanship,I have to give it to the Richemont Group. In case you don't know who they are, you need to wake the hell up! The Richemont Group is owned by South African billionaire Johan Rupert. The groups portfolio includes the likes of Cartier, Mont Blanc. Baume & Mercier, Officine Panerai, IWC, Vacheron Constantine, A lange & Sohne, Alfred Dunhill, Minerva, Purdee Shotguns, Chloé, Lancel, Shanghai Tang, Montegrappa, Van Cleef and Arpels and Piaget.

With the exception of Piaget who lets be honest is only big in Asia, all of the other brands owned by the group are hugely successful on a worldwide scale and are considered best in their class. The history in all these brands spans over a 250 year period with Vacheron Constantine which is the oldest continuous running watch company in existence making superb timepieces since the year 1755.

The Richemont group was formed in 1988 by Mr Johan Rupert. 1996 was the first year that Richemont started collecting serious watch brands. What better way than to start off by aquiring the oldest most respected watch brand in the world without interrupted watchmaking since 1755 that is Vacheron Constanitine! With the acquisition of Panerai in 1997, Richemont was at the forefront of making history with these incredible historic gauged instruments which inspired and entire revolution of how we wear big watches today. Then in the year 2000 Richemont acquired the dream team of the three most exclusive well finished recognizable brands today that are A lange & Sohne, Jaeger Le Coultre and IWC for a retarted amount of money, but with the way they have been growing on a daily basis gaining immense brand recognition, I will say it was one hell of a sound investment.

Finally, Last year in 2007 Richmont had another record breaking year acquiring Minerva Manufacture which has a heritage renowned for their chronograph movements which will be used In Mont Blanc Watches as well as be a huge asset to sister brands Panerai, A Lange & Sohne and JLC for their future development. The other huge announcement made was that Richemont and Polo Ralph Lauren merged in the formation of The Polo Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewellery Company. This comes as no surprise as Ralph Lauren is a huge watch collector especially Panerai. If I was Polo, I would stick to making clothes in third world countries and marking them up a million percent for the masses. I would never wear one of these watches because I don't really like the dirty Polo Logo, but what better way for Ralph Lauren to get a good deal on the watches he loves and partner with the best watch luxury group in the world, to launch his own line of timepieces and jewelery, and to be taken seriously in the watch and jewelery industry and legitimize the brands image further.

I thought it would be really cool to show you the chronology of when all the brands started, so you can see the heritage which has spanned over the last 250 years to give perspective of how timeless and important these brands are today!

1755 Vacheron Constantin Geneva
1814 Purdey London
1830 Baume & Mercier Geneva
1833 Jaeger-LeCoultre Le Sentier
1845 Lange & Söhne Glashütte
1847 Cartier Paris
1858 Minerva
1860 Officine Panerai Florence
1868 IWC Schaffhausen
1874 Piaget Geneva
1876 Lancel Paris
1893 Alfred Dunhill London
1906 Van Cleef & Arpels Paris
1906 Montblanc Hamburg
1912 Montegrappa Bassano del Grappa
1952 Chloé Paris
1994 Shanghai Tang Hong Kong

pic courtesy of www.richemont.com

Lange Akademie

In the watch industry today it is very difficult to get trained for various brands if one works in a retail environment. From experience I can tell you that the watch brands do a real half assed job in conveying their message of why their brand is so important, until last year A Lange & Sohne launched their very prestigious and respected Lange Akademie for their retail partners world wide.

Lange spared no expense at all. I mean why should they right, they are arguably the absolute best watch brand in the world. The Akademie was a separate building that was erected right near to their Manufacturing facility in Glasshutte Germany. This building consisting of two floors was a state of the art facility including a classroom with the coolest hard wood floors with the most modern German lighting and fixtures. Two students two one desk, a futuristic vertical blind system, and at the far end of the room behind the classroom, working watch stations to teach all the elements involved in making these masterpieces, including finishing, polishing and engraving that make this watch so legendary. The classroom provided a very first hand one on one experience of getting intimate with the brand on so many different levels.

I have to say the Germans have a Bad wrap at being stoic, cold and completely emotionless boring Krauts. I am here to tell you quite the contrary. I feel that in all the watch trainings or any kind of meetings I have ever been involved in, this was by far the most amazing experience I have ever been able to be apart of. Granted when your selling luxury your treated differently, but people this was on an unparalleled universe. Every morning for those three days was an honor and a privilege to be apart of something so incredibly special.

We were fussed over and treated like kings from the food which was prepared by top chefs, to the entertainment of going out in the evenings with Lange top execs, and even the frigging classroom felt effortless because it was something that evoked so much passion and enthusiasm by discussing current product, development of future product and after sales service as well as role playing with different sales techniques. I got to learn how to engrave a balance cock by Lange master watch engraver and was even shown how regulation of the movement was done by adding weights to the movement. At the end we endured this exam which was a test of knowledge on what he had learned on the history, the brand and what makes it tick. I passed. Thank the frigging lord! I left with so much more than I came with and I will never forget how incredibly warm and cool the Germans really are despite the fact that they worship David Hasselhoff.

The only thing Lange needs to do is offer this sort of program for serious watch collectors. They would have no problem paying for this sort of thing and lets face it the access is priceless. To be so connected to a brand like Lange in three days was an absolute dream, because after you see how everything is done and then you try it yourself, you end of having a tremendous amount of respect for the people who are involved in creating what might possibly be in my opinion the most perfect watch brand in the world today!

Charitable Timing

It was only like 3-4 years ago where Famed actor Leonardo DiCaprio was photographed on the Red Carpet at the Oscars wearing a Jaeger Le Coultre Reverso Tourbillon. This has been a growing partnership over the years of mutual respect For both Parties involved. It seems that Mr DiCaprio and JLC want to take this relationship to a whole new Level.

Both Leonardo DiCaprio And JLC being masters in their field have teamed up to make two watches which will benefit LEO's eponymous fund spreading the message about the Oscar Nominated actor views on the worlds ecological system. This works out great because both watches ain't cheap which helps legitimize JLC make history and also validate the actors profound message.

It seems that sometime this fall the two watches will role out for public consumption. These will be designed and manufactured by JLC and finally approved by the fame actor for the ultimate collaboration. The first watch will be some sort of variation of The Master Compressor Extreme Lab machined out of carbon fiber and titanium that the actor had worn to the premiere of his documentary entitled the 11Th hour, which is about our planet in peril, and will cost in the neighborhood of $300,000, and will be personally inscribed with Leo's signature and can buy you shit loads of solar panels. The second option out of the this two part watch mini series, will be The 175th anniversary of the JLC Iconic Reverso with the Gyro Tourbillon 2 made out of Platinum and will cost around $400,000. This partnership will be called Time To Care, and at the same time JLC has also developed an internal company which promotes recylcing and conserving energy under their own roof, entitled Making Time More Beautiful.

To make a bold move in an economy like this to raise awarness and consciousness around the world for such a serious problem as Global Warming is truly Charitable Timing!

pic courtesy of www.eonline.com

Breaking Code

It's one thing to be a watch geek these days, but to combine it with the geekdom of Sci-Fi is like frigging sensory overload! For this years Basel Fair 2008 Hamilton has decided to release the New Code breaker watch which is sure to be bonner of the year for watch/sci-fi geeks alike.

Since the late sixties Hamilton has had this love affair collaboration with sci-fi including being worn in 20 different sci-fi movies including Stanely Kubrics 2001 Space Odyssey and of course the watch worn by Tommy Lee Jones and Will Smith In the movie Men In Black, I Am Legend, War of The Worlds and The Hulk. Hamilton being a celebrated brand now of over 100 years and proudly owned by the swatch group has always been able to gain technical ground and the new Hamilton Code Breaker is the newest inception of what to expect for the future.

This sought after piece of timeless Science Fiction can be had in Brushed Titanium, Black PVD or Rose and Yellow Gold PVD and is available in two sizes and two different movements depending on the mood. The Bigger watches are available in all the various combinations and are self winding chronograph movements which are 48.5 mm fitted on bullet proof rubber straps and the smaller models are Rose Gold or Yellow Gold PVD which are fitted with leather straps. The attention to detail just like a sci-fi film is flawless and futuristic at the same time. The chronograph counters blare high tech gadgetry and the push buttons for the chrono are the control keys that navigate the watches future, and compared to any other technical Sci-Fi watch with this kind of clean modernity it's relatively inexpensive at only $1,995 making it every Sci-fi/Watch Geeks Wet Dream!

So in an age where we have a traditional watch company with undeniable classic heritage its a bold leap to see how Hamilton continues to Break Code into the future!

pic courtesy of www.hamiltonwatch.com

Zee Germans!

I have to admit I am not the biggest european football fan, but hell I gotta write this because my brother in law is a football junky and happens to be one hell of a happy German. I personally feel that watches with white dials look like ass. They are really stark, boring and have no character for the most part. Depending on the name on the dial and whose behind it white dials can look cheap like a 5 cent black and white photocopy, until IWC dropped the most stellar Dopple Chrono for The German Football Federation for 2008 also known as (DFB).

As you may or may not know IWC has focused on the Dopple Chrono Functions for their special editions in the last 5 years to reinvent their image. To be fair this is the perfect watch to provide technical masculinity with the functions and size. This limited edition of 500 pieces in stainless steel of which the first 24 will be given to the players and trainers of the German National Soccer team and the rest will be sold at exclusive IWC dealers in Germany and a few top dealers worldwide. This was perfect timing on IWC's part to be part of the recent Euro 2008 because even though Germany Lost to Spain in the Final in Austria, the German players all got to wear the watch which was incredible exposure for the brands image especially with regards to European football/soccer which is the biggest sport in the world. This is just the first of Partnership with IWC and Football because there will be another piece produced for the 2010 World Cup in South Africa.

This Partnership between IWC and German Football is the ideal relationship. Both of these outfits compliment each other as well as diversify their image on global scales. Much like the German Football Team is known for their precision in executing field goal kicks with such accurate timing IWC is known for their incredibly finished movements and attention to detail with their watch cases and dials. The special edition (DFB) is a dynamic 44 mm stainless steel case with a highly modified Valjoux 7750 movement to IWC Specs which has been wrapped with soft iron to deflect magnetic fields so the watch never gets magnetized.

The dial is a bold white dial with black subdials for the chronograph and a red subsecond hand at 9 o'clock, black Arabic pilot numerals and the happy colors of the German flag yellow red and black are used to highlight the particular functions of the chrono and the split second functions, also featuring the very cool signature date displacement inspired by pilots cockpits of showing the day before the day of and the day after . The domed sapphire crystal gives perspective and a vintage feel to those looking in and the caseback is specially engraved. A black rograin nylon strap with white stitching is used to complete this equation to show what a year it has truly been for Zee Germans!

pic courtesy of www.iwc.ch

Five Handed

I have always been a huge fan of Alfred Dunhill. They make the Best suits and men's accessories and besides they epitomise British Heritage and sophistication in a really cool, classy, non offensive way without being arrogant. One of the real dilemmas the watch industry is facing today is that we are starting to see more brands that aren't watch brands starting to make watches, and in my opinion they should just stick to what they know best, but in this case its a rare exception!

There is a convenience factor in doing one stop shopping. Lets be honest if your a guy who wants to buy the finer things in life to make yourself look good, for most of us we have no frigging clue where to even start from. The Dunhill boutique is the answer to your prayers, I will never forget, it was two years ago now and I was in one of the Dunhill boutiques around the world which by the way is like an old men's club, its fantastic! I went in to buy a suit because their sale was going on and low and behold I got the suit and even a pair of the nicest hand made shoes,but at the same time as I was leaving I was looking at their watches amd I fell in love with the most amazing watch.

The Dunhill A-Centric Pentagraph is this incredible stainless steel self-winding watch which has a total of five watch hands displaying hours, minutes, seconds, date and GMT function. The best part or this watch Even though this timpepiece has 5 hands and outer rings for the various functions on the watch its very clean,understated and easy to read unlike most watches with multiple hands and different functions are very confusing and can drive you clincally insane to understand what's going on, and despite the fact the watch is 42 mm and is on the smaller side for me I had to have it and bought it! This was modern elegance at it's finest hour.

The diplacement of the functions is very cleverly laid out, where there is a center circle displaying the time in black with lumincent arabic numerals and luminicent art deco hands for incredibly bold contrast ensuring legibility. This is cirlcled by a thinner outter black ring with all thirty one numerals written in red for the date as well as a red arrow pointer for the date indicator. The Final outter ring is black with military time laid out in blue numbers with a blue GMT arrow indicator for the second time zone. The watch is completed with a very supple black calf strap with a stainless steel modern D deployment buckle for perserving wearibilty and comfort.

Even though Dunhill is a British brand with incredible tradition that is known for the best in Menswear and accesories, the Pentagraph though only availabe exclusivily in Dunhill Boutiques is the first watch to be five handed.

pic courtesy of www.dunhill.com

Welcome To HollyHorology

Hollywood/weird a place of the ultimate in opulence and decadence. A very exclusive circle of people who represent what so many people out there want. In the last two years Rock Star watch brand IWC had teamed up with Hollywood in a very creative way to affirm notoriety within those circles. At least years Geneva SIHH 2007, after all their business was done they gave back to their worldwide partners by hosting the most Lavish party colliding the world of Hollywood and Horology by transforming and industrial airplane hanger to host a truly glamorous A list Party. For the Relaunch of their new DA Vinci Line they were able to get the likes of Oscar Winning Actor Kevin Spacey who is also a friend of the brand to write and Narrate a Play based around the Rebirth of the New DA Vinci watch alongside sexy screen siren actress Thandie Newton. The night was capped off by seventies American Disco and Funk masters CHIC, Not only was this clever, but extremely impactful and a night to remember.

This year was even better. On April 8Th 2008 with the launch of the highly anticipated new Vintage line paying homage to six vintage watches from the past by putting on another Lavish Gala and proved to be another star studded event. This time is was a play acted by Ralph Fienes and Cate Blanchett produced and written by The Sydney Theatre Company in their recreation of Boston since IWC's founder Mr FA Jones was originally from there to create the story behind the new vintage line. Other celebrities including Elle Macpherson, Lenny Kravitz and Kevin Spacey were just some of the A-listers to be a part of this Historic Evening. Even Alanis Morrisette was involved in rocking out the evening and played a great set and entertained the guests. With the success of the brand IWC has made in the last 5 years it is cool to see they are gaining the respect and attention that they finally deserve!

What Women Want!

Well, I wanted to respond to a comment posted by one of my female supporters with regard to addressing the Women’s watches that are available in the scene today. It appears these days that all women want are an honest sincere guys who will take good care of them as well as having really big hearts/helmets. Apart from this I think it fair to say that women also need to have a great watch. The biggest issue in the watch industry today besides staying legitimate and true to their brand identity is making a decent watch for women that doesn't necessarily have diamonds on it. With higher end watchmakers who make complications I can completely understand their challenge with women's watch cases typically being smaller your working with a much more confined working space to achieve similar functions to men's complicated watches.

I think watches being typically a mans sport have been very intimidating for women, hence watch brands pigeon hole women to only wear watches that are jewelry pieces instead of fine timepieces. Let face it people, high jewelry timepieces for women have a place at the opera, or a fancy dinner party but not for everyday use that can be worn in any situation. The reason for this. Well, lets look at the ad campaigns out there marketing to women. You have advocates like Nicole Kidman for Omega, Terry Hatcher For Baume & Mercier And Glamour Tennis Icon Ana Sharapova for Tag Heuer all representing telling women they have to wear these elegant tiny women's watches with diamonds, and even if they are not jeweled the choices for women are just so downright tacky that it's almost offensive!

The US is so advanced in so many ways but when it comes to sophistication and style I got to hand it to Europe. European women wouldn't be caught dead wearing a mincy watch with diamonds. They have class. They wear Bigger Bolder men's watches that have defining heritage and credibility like the classic IWC Portuguiser Chrono or even a 40mm Panerai, and to be honest there is nothing hotter and sexier than a women wearing a big watch. Not just any watch either the right watch. To be blunt I didn't have respect for how a Gold Rolex Daytona on a bracelet looked till I saw it on a beautiful Spanish women. It was sensual yet rugged and was every bit as elegant as the women wearing it. If you ladies out there don't feel comfortable wearing a bigger watch I feel that even though the Chanel J12 in white ceramic is becoming cliche and synonymous with women who want something bigger and don't necessarily feel like they are old enough to wear a Stainless Steel & Gold Rolex Datejust it's a safe bet and totally fits the need for the Ultimate in fashion and watchmaking. The watch is Big, Bold Iconic and strangely enough is definitely without a doubt the only women's watch that I respect to hold its value and besides only Chanel could make it acceptable for the world to wear a white watch.

Ladies? If you feel the Black and White world of Chanel is not to your liking, then I strongly suggest to step it up a notch and go with The ladies Zenith Star Collection in Stainless Steel on bracelet. Remember Stainless Steel is A neutral metal that can be worn with anything so don't you worry about clashing for Christ sake! Here is a legit watch brand with incredible heritage that is tastefully done but yet its not too girly. You have the incorporation of jewelry and heritage wrapped up with everyday elegance that so many brands are just not able to pull off. The watch is equipped with the super accurate and respected Zenith El Primero movement and has a guilloche dial with Arabic numbers that had to be cooked to show tradition and respect and yet the bracelet is like an amazing piece of jewelry to balance out the masculinity and emits the Haute couture spirit like fashion that women all over the world desire today! One thing is for damn sure, if the watch companies were smarter they would not underestimate the women's watch market and come up with better solutions to make better watches and more selection for the ladies out there because at the end of the day women are becoming a lot more watch savvy and they will only buy what they want!

First pic courtesy of www.chanel.com
Second pic courtesy of www.zenithwatches.com