ITS ABOUT TIME TO GET LOCKED UP

Sadly, the verdict is in for famed gangster I mean money embezzler Jacob Arabov of Jacob & Co. It appears this jeweler to the stars who is the mastermind behind the Oh so complicated five timezone watch in primary colors is being sentenced to two and a half years in prison which is scheduled to begin on January 15, 2009. The reason? Well, last year the jeweler plead guilty to giving false info and lying to the feds about money laundering $270 million in profit with others in drug trafficking in which those charges were dropped by the prosecution in exchange for the guilty plea. In my opinion he is being let off really easy, the judge has ordered him to pay a $50.000 fine and he has to cough up another $2 million in forfeiture to the government along with his two and a half year prison sentence which I am sure will get reduced based on who he is and how much he pulls up his socks!

My absolute favorite part in all of this is that he stated "I feel ashamed that I broke the laws of this country, a country that has been so good for me. I will carry this shame for the rest of my life." I mean come on! As if I am sure when he was in his country it would be completely lawful to do what he did. Well despite the compelling statement he made, its really sad how money, greed and power could lead to such an awful turn of events.

Jacob, even though he is not my favorite character in the world because his lack of ethics and partial respect for true watchmaking, built an absolute empire with a vision and made millions doing it legally with the most incredible A-list celebrities endorsing his dream so we thought, but lets not be naive people, because of his dirty shady illegal activity and blatant greed factor its about time he got locked up! But just when you think its over you can pretty much bet this experiance will make him even more famous than he already is and probably be the best thing he ever did totally reinventing his career.

pic courtesy of www.nymag.com

A Valued Pilot

Consider that Pilots watches have been made for some time now. They all look the same, like cheap imitations of the originator IWC. For years IWC has made the very respected Fleigher Chrono Ref 3706 which became a standard for collectors and watch enthusiasts alike to aspire for. This being 38 mm was very reminiscent of the early Pilots watch from the WW2 era that IWC made. This Chrono was stainless steel, grayish black dial, sapphire crystal, solid caseback and had the day/date function rolled out at the three o'clock position written very much like the instrumentation in airplane cockpits. This watch came alive with the very reliable work horse that is the Valjoux 7750 movement which was highly modified to IWC specs and for years it stabilized around $4,000.

There was only one problem in my opinion the 3706 was way to small and not really that masculine and to be honest looked a lot like a Hamilton Kaki Automatic Chrono which you could buy for a couple hundred dollars, but then two years ago the ultimate surgery was performed when the watch got the much needed face lift it deserved. IWC reinvented their Pilots line replacing this Classic pilot 3706 with the new 3717 which in my opinion should have been watch of the year for 2006.

This watch was redefined with a bigger 42 mm stainless steel case, and amazing dial with a subtle but cool red second hand at 9 o'clock broke up the starkness of the dial, the day/date was inverted with white writing with black background instead of black writing with white background ensuring much better visibility, the hands were sword shaped and better finished and the German military symbol of the triangle at the 12 o'clock was finished with a dot on either side.

The most astonishing part was that IWC was so smart, that they kept the price the same at $4,000, upgraded their image completely and at the same time kept their integrity which built a demand, that would have people cuing up to buy this watch for months making this watch a valued pilot, and my favorite daily wearer of all time!

pics courtesy of www.iwc.ch

It's About Time For History!

From 1860 to 1980 if you were a member of the Royal Italian Navy you wore a Panerai and in 1998 it became available to the public. These instruments were used as depth gauges, hence their size for legibility under water. Today there is no watch as bold, as iconic and in your face that can be worn everyday like a Panerai. The very first Panerais were known as Radiomir which was a substance that was used to luminate the dial so it would be seen at night by the famous Italian Military divers who would dive at all hours. This case was 45 mm and designed by Rolex for Panerai. Panerai till today has documentation stating the partnership at that time between the two companies. Rolex not only made the Radiomir cases, the original Radiomirs were first produced with original Rolex Ligne Movements which today are virtually untouchable and command up to $100,000 for the original ones.

Not to late after the Radiomir Panerai was called upon to make something heartier bolder and more stable that could survive impact and shock and did this with the release of their Luminor case which was very distinct from its predecessor in that it had a patented crown device at the side of the case which locked and protected the crown from getting damaged and served as an anti shock device and when pushed in sealed and made the watch water resistant to a certain depth. This watch was also different in that is had a numeral 9 and a sub second hand at the 9 o'clock position making it very bold and legible. This company was purchased by the Richmont group in 1998 for only one million dollars and today is worth hundreds of millions of dollars.
I wish I had a million dollars in 1998 to buy Panerai, what an amazing investment.

The Company is headed up by Mr Angelo Bonati who is the CEO worldwide, and is the genus master mind behind the success of the brand. He has stuck to his gut and made history and influenced so many other brands to make watches with much larger cases which seemed impossible due the conservative nature of the watch industry in the past. Almost two years ago Panerai unleashed there in house caliber movements which have been very well received and have legitimized Panerai as not only an innovator of large case watches and throwbacks to nostalgia as well as a true watch manufacturer.

The most amazing accomplishment of Panerai is that they have never paid anyone to wear their brand. Sylvester Stallone has become a friend of the brand. Before the brand was bought by Richmont Mr Stallone was in Florence and he stumbled across the first Panerai Boutique and was so impressed and intrigued by the brand that he purchased 300 watches as gifts to give to his friends and because of this Panerai has benefited greatly from the amazing exposure and press that surrounded it. Panerai's way of saying thank you was making a watch called a sly tech which has become a cult favorite. There have been many to follow the lead of Sylvester Stallone, including Hugh Grant, Russell Crow, Orlando Bloom and The Rock to name a few, although Sly was the only one of these actors to have a watch named after him.

Around the same time as Panerai introduced their own in house movements they also were in collaboration with Ferrari to make a watch for them. The results in the beginning were extremely hot. This was very smart on Panerai's part because they attracted an audience they may have not had before with Ferrari Enthusiasts. Using a case that they once had back in the day inspired by early Radiomir designs,Panerai was able to show the similarities between these incredible Italian machines in true passion and engineering. There was no mention of Panerai anywhere on the watch except for the deployment clasp which says engineered by Panerai. A very bold move on Panerai's part because they wanted to make it clear that it was Ferrari's watch made by Panerai. A good thing they did because this line is now being offered to retailers as a Carrot to those dealers who don't have Panerai and want it have to first take this Ferrari line. Needless to say Ferrari even though interesting and limited not the best thing to come out of Panerai's arsenal but quite an interesting way of using leverage to get new retailers to move Ferrari and acquire Panerai.

Finally, I will say that if your looking for a versatile watch with some serious inspiration, unique, historic masculinity thats in your face, you must buy yourself a Panerai because you will insure yourself not just a cool watch but an amazing investment with future!

pic courtesy of www.panerai.com

Calling All Watchmakers

OK, so I know that finding a good watchmaker these days is virtually impossible to find. I mean it's really a dying art. I am all for watch brands priding themselves on having the best watchmakers in the world, but lets be honest this new ad for Omega's watchmaker recruitment using George Clooney is just down right ridiculous.

I thought George Clooney was a classy actor with some nads, not some out of work actor that needs the money so he appears looking like a psycho in a watchmaker ad. I know there is supposed to be some sort of sex appeal about George Clooney,but I don't think watchmakers can ever look sexy, creepy? definitely! I guess he is also the brand ambassador for Omega, and I suppose when you got a magic formula you try to milk it, but unfortunately for Omega this marketing tit has been dried out as far as I am concerned.

Omega should try and focus more on the brand itself and less on the people to try to regain some much needed momentum because they really are the best pure value in the watch industry today!

pic courtesy of www.omega.com

What's All The Fuss About?

As far as supply and demand, there is no one in the watch industry today that controls it better than Rolex. Almost every professional Sport model they make is a shortage item and the reason The Rolex Stainless Steel Daytona. This watch set the example for every other watch brand in the last 30 years to follow how creating a demand is done. Every watch collector in the world whether they collect Rolex or not has to have The Stainless Steel Daytona in their collection because it stands for The Exclusive Status Symbol that appreciates in value. The fanaticism that surrounds this which is like any extreme religion where people are willing to stand in line like communism as long as 5 years just to have the opportunity to buy the watch.

So, how is this done? Well, in 1961 Rolex made the first Daytona. This was a stainless steel chronograph which Rolex trademarked as a Cosmograph which was similar but different in that the tachometer scale was printed or engraved on the outer bezel rather than on the outer border of the dial. This became very popular amongst the car enthusiast community because of how useful the watch was in calculating average lap speed. The very first models were available in an array of different dials of which some were considered exotic which was a black dial with white register subdials or cream with black register subdials featured square markers within the registers. These exotic dials were haled as Paul Newman Dials, the reason being because Paul Newman wore one of these in the 1969 car racing movie Winning. These watches immediately became very sought after in the Italian market and only sold for around $400 and today command anywhere between $50,000 to $100,000 depending on the dial.

In the mid 80's early 90's the watch became available only with black or white dials fitted with a Zenith El Primero movement which is one of the most reliable chronograph movements in the world which fetch anywhere between twelve to fifteen thousand dollars because even though the watch was not numbered there was an extremely limited supply which has fueled the demand for the last 20 years. This movement was changed in Early 2000 with an in house manufactured movement with a better constructed bracelet and today still goes for thousands over list price. Even though I don't really wear a Rolex, owning a vintage Daytona with A Paul Newman Dial would be an absolute cream dream. With this cult icon engraved into history for over 30 years it should now totally clear up What the fuss is all about?

Alarm Bells Are Ringing

Watches with alarms today are quite weak with regards to selection and aesthetics, lets face it people, alarmed watches are either digital which just look revolting and cheap or some variation of sound between a whoopee cushion and a hand buzzer. The watch which has been able to withstand the test of time is the Jaeger Le Coultre Memovox.

Almost 5 years Ago JLC was reborn with the inception of their Compressor line of watches which were bigger and more masculine line of sport elegance watches with complication, basically taking their master line of refined wristwatches and putting them on steroids. The result was flawless, and the first icon reborn was the Compressor. The Memovox was originally made in 1956 and was the first wristwatch in the world to have a mechanical alarm. This alarm was truly outstanding using a bell and a hammer to make a sound that is guaranteed to wake you up!

Today this innovation is used in the Compressor Memovox which stands 42 mm in case diameter and is available in Stainless Steel, 18k Rose Gold and 18k white gold. This piece of Modern Masculine Horological sound has a black Arabic dial with luminescent hour markers and hands, 100 meters water resistant, an inner rotating bezel for diving an in house caliber movement with mechanical alarm and is fitted with a chocolate brown croco strap with double white stitching on either side for rich elegance as well as a folding buckle that preserves the longevity of the strap.

Personally if your going to buy this watch and want the ultimate in versatility, the one in stainless steel is the one to have and should be fitted with a honey brown croco strap which makes it perfect to wear in any situation. So just when you think the only option is to buy yourself a Timex I am hear to tell you to buy The JLC Compressor memovox because real mechanical alarm bells will be ringing.

pic courtesy of www.jagerlecoultre.com

Déjà vu

Well, It wasn't that long ago that Rock Star watch brand IWC tested the limits of divers watches in 1999 with the robust engineering of the Deep One. Even though this titanium wonder was produced for a limited time, it definitely took notice of divers and admirers alike but didn't really fly off the shelves. People were afraid and perplexed by the size and the function of what the watch actually did. Even though it didn't seem like it at the time it was one of the smartest moves IWC ever made.

The watch standing 45 mm in case diameter was fitted with A Jaeger Le Coultre Base movement and featured a very cool complication which showed how deep the diver has descended with use of a mechanical depth gauge, which could only be possible by allowing water into the case and that pressure would then allow an internal ring to show an analog reading on the dial. No fine watch company had the creativity and balls like IWC to pull of something so big and well manufactured with purpose. Today The Deep One has become very collectible and a cult favorite amongst watch enthusiasts around the world and is the current inspiration for the entire Aquatimer line that IWC launched a few years back which has become a huge success. I mean how much more testosterone do you need? The watch was even packaged with a penis pump,I mean a pump that tested the accuracy of the depth gauge!

This was to followed up three years ago with the launch of the newly redesigned Aquatimer series headed up by the Aquatimer Split Minute which is the first of its kind in the world for a divers watch. Just like the deep one This 44 mm watch is only available in titanium, and features a Flyback mechanism that works independently of the chronograph with a patented little rocker switch on the opposite side of the case, making it really easy to turn this function on/off without any complication. The watch is 120 meters water resistant and includes a self-winding chronograph, inner rotating bezel for diving and can be clad on a rubber strap to fit any wrist or on the most comfortable titanium bracelet on the market which you can adjust yourself for the ultimate bit of self indulgence.

Even though it is a hair smaller than its older scarier brother the split minute does a fantastic job of combing useful complication, bold colorful dial and clever use of size, and yet still maintains it's legacy from the past makes me have serious déjà vu!

pics courtesy of www.iwc.ch

Self Service

Like anything in life the toughest part of achieving things is maintaining what you have. The same holds true after buying a fine timepiece. When I got my first good watch I was on cloud 9. For me it was better than getting laid for the first time. I mean I was so elated,especially for the first year or two because owning a fine timepiece seemed extravagant and unreacheable,that I didn't even realize how important it is to get my watch serviced and cleaned. At first I was so naive that I thought water resistant meant shower all you want with it, and abuse it in a hot tub. What the hell did I know I was only 17. After I got my first repair bill I nearly passed out because it was almost half the price of the watch.

I then realized quickly I was destroying the watch with my excitement and naivety of testing the waters of owning something so nice. I think it is crucial for anyone out there owning a nice timepiece to get it cleaned and repaired about every three to five years. To be honest a watch is like a car, if you don't maintain and up keep it you will have to replace it very soon. You may ask yourself how do I even go about this? Don't worry, I know this can be quite stressful, but believe me once you do it you will feel a million times better. The best way to do it is go to the dealer you purchased it from and go to their repair department.

A good repair department will tell you everything you need to know. Be sure to ask questions and don't be afraid. Having worked in retail over the years one thing I will say is please be patient. Fine timepieces are not built in a day, take into account what goes into making a nice watch and you will understand. I didn't have much respect for watch makers when I was younger, but when I woke up and had the opportunity to attend watchmaking classes for the best watch companies in the world,I know I got really spoiled but hey my faith and respect was immediately restored. I will say this just to save yourself time and money make sure you don't shower or go in a Jacuzzi with any watch because you will destroy it. Swimming is absolutely fine, but hot water will kill the watch because most water resistant watches have rubber gaskets, when exposed to hot water they expand and contract and do it enough times they will break causing water to get in ensuring a hefty bill to correct the problem.

I often hear if the watch is not broken don't fix it. It really depends. To be honest send it in for service so it won't break. Remember an automatic or manual wind watch have many parts that have been oiled and regulated so the watch runs smoothly, after working for three to five years the oils dry up and the watch has to work harder to perform the same function, which can result in loosing or gaining time. In most cases what happens when a watch goes for servicing is that the movement is completely disassembled and the parts get chemically bathed and watever parts need replacing get replaced and then the movement is reassembled, lubricated and resealed and retested for accuracy which can take time.

So, at the end of the day it is in your best interest to do yourself the service of getting your watch cleaned regularly so that it lasts a lifetime!

ITS ABOUT TIME FOR HISTORY!

Swatch was a rare phenomenon that transcended the watch industry in the early 80's, and is the very reason why we have a Swiss watch industry today. Once seen as disposable inexpensive art on the wrist became engraved as a huge piece of pop culture today. In the eighties with the revolution of quartz battery driven watches, there was really no Swiss watch industry. People were wearing cheap quartz watches made in Japan. Swatch came in and sparingly emerged showing that a reliable Swiss watch could be made efficiently and cost effective blowing out the Japanese quartz movements and starting a hysteria that has influenced many alike.

The Swatch Group is majority owned by Nicholas Hayek which along with Swatch owns Omega, Tissot, Longines, Hamilton, Rado, Breguet, Blancpain, Jaquet-Droz and German manufacturer Glasshutte Original. They also own the dial and case companies which manufacture close to 80% of the world dials and watch cases. In addition they own Movement Companies, ETA,Valjoux and Lemania. This Swiss Company formed in 1983 is the biggest watch manufacturer in the world.

This company employees approximately 24,000 people worldwide with sales in 2007 reaching a staggering 6 billion dollars. As of late because of the rule governed by Swiss courts this company has a monopoly on the watch industry and all companies which rely on the Swatch Group for movements can no longer purchase movements from The Swatch Group and must become self reliant as of 2010 which will force watch companies to develop their own movements which will be very expensive to produce hence driving up the price of basically all watch companies.

So the next time you think of Swatch Group even though at times seems like an evil empire, just think how they started with a plastic $40 watch and now has become the leader of the watch industry which is responsible for saving an art and passion which fuels so many people today!

Scroll Down Chapter 1

What is Chapter 1? Chapter one is always the start of something new and different. In this case the Chapter1 is the first timepiece to be released by new watch maker Maitres Du Temps which is collaboration of three masters in watch making. Mr. Christophe Clare who plays the complex role of the innovator and developer, who most definitely has the most sought after complicated movements in his repertoire the world will ever see,Mr Roger Dubuis who has been a seasoned veteran as a master watch maker for Patek Phillipe for 14 years and has always challenged the fundamentals of watch making to construct something unique with his own brand bearing his name while still keeping the elements of traditional watch making alive and lastly Mr Peter Speake-Marin who is an Englishman who left for Switzerland at a young age to cultivate his passion and broaden his vision for watches by working under renowned complication specialists Renaud & Papi which is the movement manufacturer which is owned and operated By non other than Audemars Piguet.

The union of these three minds has resulted in the most traditional values of craftsmanship and yet still owning a piece of modernity in the New Chapter!. This touneau shaped case is 46.6mm made out of 18k rose gold with a double coated anti reflective crystal on the front and back.

This technical marvel features, Central hands indicating hours and minutes Central chronograph counterpoised second hand 60-minute counter at 12 o’clock Retrograde date at 3 o’clock Retrograde GMT at 9 o’clock position, One-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock position, Day of the week indication on roller at 6 o’clock position with Patented precise moon phase indication on roller at 12 o’clock position. So many brands get lost and confused on colliding the worlds of old watchmaking and modern ideas but the Chapter one does it flawlessly making it seem like it was done so seamlessly without effort making chapter one a must read!

pic courtesy of www. maitre du temps

Gangster Roll

People, I must confess the watch company I am writing about has everything to do with what I really don't like or believe in, nonetheless I find myself for some reason intrigued by this particular watch, but definitely not the brand. Jacob & CO famed Porn Star, sorry I mean watch guy to the stars arrived on the watch block in 2002 with his, really making yourself puke, 5 time-zone watch which basically looks like a diamond studded contraceptive. To me, this was a real piss take because watches with any complications today have heritage and class and having a 5 time zone watch in the colors of the rainbow and diamonds are an insult to the very integrity of fine watch making. I am all for self expression and originality,but when it comes to watches I am more of a purest and I feel that the traditional elements are just as important as the modern expression

The A-D Listers were eating it up for some reason and Jacob made a name for himself and became literally mentioned in every rap video branding himself as the watch guy to the stars, what a shocker? I swear these people were blind who bought this fugley turd. Anyway I definitely new he had brainwashed the masses, but when I saw one show up in a foreign film of all places, worn by some granny in a pair of Nike Air Force One's, I knew something was wrong.

Until Last year, Jacob & Co presented a watch at Basel that made me take a second look for the first time. The watch is called the Quentin, this is a really technical watch with innovation, engineering,complication available in white gold, rose gold and magnesium. This was the first watch even before A. Lange & Sohne to have a 31 day power reserve. The watch has a pounding 56 mm case, external on/off key for winding, Visible tourbillon on the side of the case, 31 day power reserve made up of 7 visible vertical barrels and the indications of hours, minutes, power reserve is made by vertical disks assembled co axially. The watch industry and collectors took notice positioning Jacob as a more serious watch brand, but it still has the wrong name on the dial, unfortunately I feel it will always be a brand that shows us how the gangsters roll.

pic courtesy of www.jacob&co.com

A Watch Is Only As Good As The Strap That It's On

In the last five years we have shifted from a bracelet wearing watch culture back to the basics of wearing them on straps. The only difference today is that there are so many more options than there ever were regarding watch straps. When I was younger there was something really appealing about wearing a watch on a bracelet, it was easy, no fuss no muss, ya right!

I grew up real quick and realized that the only watches that look cool on bracelets are stainless steel, and after a while they look way too monochromatic. Today statements are being made about watches by the straps that they are on and not just for the purpose they serve of holding the watch to your wrist. There is no question that straps are the way to go if your looking for versatility and individuality. Large grain croco straps that are thickly padded make a watch look refined sophisticated and chic. Rubber Straps are Casual, everyday and rugged and withstand the day to day running around and absorbs sweat, but its gotta be the right kind of rubber strap and preferably not the Iron Man Type which can make you look like a complete jock strap!

I know that some of you out there may be getting frustrated with the watches that you have on order that may come by the end of the year if you are lucky, not to worry update your current watches by changing the look completely and get yourself a new strap. The options in straps today are mind blowing, with different skins ranging from crocodile to calf to stingray,elephant,ostrich and lizard to name a few, any color you can think of as long as it doesn't look like ass, thickness,sizes,lining the possibilities are endless. Make sure you get good quality straps because they last much longer and the aesthetic will make you much happier.

Today, it's actually less expensive to get a custom made strap, than buy a strap from any of the watch manufacturers because your paying for their brand name. I bet your thinking where do you get such a thing, well your in luck because coming soon, I am launching my own line of high end custom straps that should fit just about any timepiece, so now I think as much as we place importance on the functionality and finishing a watch is only as good as the strap that its on.

pic courtesy of www.giulianomazzuoli.com

From A Galaxy Not Too Far Away

So, what do you get when you combine turbines, air compression, and revolving satellites? Not jet fighter aviation that's for sure, but the amazing craft work of the Urwerk 202 complication launched for this years Geneva Fair. This unique watch brand which prides itself on the future of watch making burst onto the horological scene in 1997.

This brand is the collaboration of chief designer Martin Frei and Master Watchmaker Felix Baumgartner. It is amazing how the meeting at one drunken New Year's Eve Party in 1991 could bring both these visionaries together to create something so new and different the watch industry had never seen before, and change the way we look at watches today. The UR-202 is available in three different metals, Rose Gold, White Gold and an interesting mixture of black PE-CVD platinum and ALTiN .

For the first time in the world here is a wristwatch that features a patented new winding system which is regulated by compressing air by using miniature turbines which was inspired and influence by clockmakers from as far back as the 18th century using air friction to regulate the accuracy of chiming clocks. This watch has a 46.3 mm case which has a satin finish, which has been micro sandblasted, and the caseback is made out of titanium for comfort and ultimate durability.

The features of the watch include hours,minutes,moon phase and day/night indication. The dial is laid out in a very interesting way by displaying three orbital and revolving satellite display hour indicators, and completes this equation of telling time using telescopic minute hands running through the center of the hour hands. The back of the watch serves as much purpose as the front interestingly enough. The twin spinning turbines which powers this intricate machine can be seen through two miniature windows, and the lever in front depending on the sort of impact the watch is taking, can be set to three different modes so that the turbines act as buffers, reducing wear and tear and ensuring elasticity to the movement. At times even though it looks like Urwerk is way too far into the future with their design and complication, at the same time it is definitely from a galaxy not too far away!

pic courtesy of www.urwerk.com

Watch Retailers Vs Watch Consultants

Ok people, this is a little bit off the beaten path for me to write about, but I feel that it is important. Of late, I've received a number of emails and inquiries about what exactly it is that a watch consultant does, and more importantly, why a watch consultant is relevant. I thought it might be best to address this in a post.

Whether you're a watch collector or just admire timepieces from a distance, it's quite crucial to know that you're buying from somebody reputable who has your best interest at heart otherwise you could get ripped off or worse: have buyer's remorse.

Having worked in retail operations over the years, I know first hand how limiting it can be because of the limited number of brands available at a particular retail location, and in turn, the stock of those brands. I know there is this amazing feeling you get when you can go in to a shop meet the person face to face who is selling you the product, and try it on a million times whether you buy the item or not, but let's be honest: a good salesperson in the retail watch industry is very hard to find, and the most incredible ones are so sought after they are unreachable most of the time and tend to get nabbed by the watch companies during store visits. Very rarely will a salesperson at a retail establishment have enough product knowledge to help you make the right decision because either they are complete knobs, they haven't been trained properly or sometimes it is more clear than not that they will just sell you anything to make their commission for that month, which is a horrible feeling if you are the client.

I feel the advantages to having a watch consultant are far greater. The watch consultant will first be able to identify what is the right watch for you privately with discretion, do all the research, make sure you get the best price (if that's possible) and make himself/herself available to you with any questions at your convenience. A top watch consultant will also make sure that you have access to any brand you desire because of strong established relationships he/she has cultivated so you don't have to run around halfway around the world on the hunt to get what you want. Even though it may cost you a little more it is worth it at the end, because you have the assurance that you are getting the right timepiece for you, and that you are happy not just for the here and now, but for a lifetime which is absolutely priceless!

Longines Masters Re-invention

Some of you out there don't necessarily care about a watch holding its value and basically want a reliable timekeeper that looks good. Even though that doesn't really jive with me, there are exceptions to the rule. In the last few years Swatch Group owned brand Longines has been seen as this affordable watch brand that has heritage but in a way were afraid to use it.

Two years ago they came out with their master series which gave them that much needed shot in the ass that they have been looking for. Very clean large case watches some with complications and some basic and stripped down to the core. One watch that I feel is an amazing value and quite the looker, is the 47 mm manual wind stainless steel, silvered textured dial with the coolest black Arabic numerals, blue hands for that taste of fine watch making, a very reliable hand wound movement, sapphire crystal front and back and a brown croco strap to make everything come together.

Even though Longines has been stagnant and boring in the last decade they have been able to revitalize this brand by mastering their own reinvention with their new master collection.

pic courtesy of www.longines.com

ITS ABOUT TIME FOR HISTORY!

DR Octagon is The famous Marvel Comic Book character, In the watch world as far as I am concerned he is the master innovator and revolutionary watch designer Gerald Genta. He is best known for creating the design for three very important watches in the world today. Most important would be the design of The Audemars Royal Oak watch in 1972, which has become one of the most iconic and powerful watches in the world and no matter how much AP tries to diversify their product range in styling, the ones that is absolutely wanted by all collectors is some sort of royal oak variation, even though I have never really been a big fan.

The shape of the watch is octagonal inspiring the design during the same time period of the Patek Phillipe Nautilus and Iwc Ingenieur which look similar in design but both are completely autonomous and maintain their brands identity. This very well machined styling has today catapulted the launch of similar watches like the relaunch of Hublot with their Big Bang which is a blatant rip-off of the AP Royal Oak which is a compliment to AP and a tragedy for Hublot because it lacks originality and substance even though watch collectors and wanna be AP fans go GA GA for it which makes me feel like puking. Anyway now Mr Genta designs for his own brand Genta Charles.

The innovation and passion still yell through his watch line. But unfortunately his watches are really garish loud and not something I could ever see myself wearing, but I will always admire no matter how good or bad that he has still stuck to his gut and makes what he thinks is a representation of himself.


pic courtesy of www.geraldgenta.com

Observation Replication

As far as dress watches go, there is this whole unwritten rule that they can only be worn with finer clothes like tuxedo's and suits. I think it depends on the watch. A watch that breaks stigmas and maintains respect is the Richard Lange by A Lange & Sohne. This watch is incredibly elegant and even more every day than some sport watches out there today.This watch can be acquired in three different precious metals for ultimate versatility. The Platinum being a white metal and the most neutral is the one to have if you got the cashish, because even though it looks like steel you know its there because of the weight!

The incredible sophistication of the rose is in my opinion the nicest rose gold watch on the planet and most collectible out of the three with its understated but rich tone of rose gold with chocolate croco strap to be outfitted with the most casual or the most formal gear. The yellow gold, lets not really go there because I absolutely think yellow gold is worn by pimps, but this watch is available in yellow gold and somehow it manages to pull off being a great blue jeans watch.This is the only Lange that has a full sweep second hand, with a dial made out of pure silver with roman numerals which screams timeless and pays homage to the original observation pocket watch in classic tribute style.

Richard Lange was the first son of the company's founder Mr Ferdinand Adolf Lange. Richard Lange was a scientist who dedicated his life to research and development of Horology. To his credit he was awarded 27 individual patents. The one that sticks out is his use of beryllium to improve alloys such as hair springs which enhanced the elasticity and hardness and reduced the springs temperature variance as well as magnetic fields which improved the quality and assured much better accuracy.

Today Lange still uses this as a proud part of their heritage in what is called the Nivarox spring which is used by almost all fine watch companies today. The Richard Lange is 40.5 mm has a sapphire crystal front and back and is just a true symbol of the observation of replication.

pic courtesy of www.a-lange&sohne.com

Rolex Makes History

On April 17,2008 Rolex made history in NYC at an Antiqorum Auction entitled Revolution:The Evolution Of The Rolex Sports watch, commemorating 100 year anniversary of Rolex. The most staggering prices were reached at this auction as the excitement and interest was outstanding, that a separate sales room was set up in Milan,Italy connecting to the NYC auction via video conference. An estimated 8.5 million dollars was reached at this auction as well as Rolex taking nine world records on this one day live sale. The watch that absolutely stole the show was not the vintage Paul Newman Daytona but the rare vintage Rolex Stainless Steel Comex, Sea-Dweller made in 1979 which commanded $248,800 including a buyers premium.

Comex is a French diving company established in 1961 and worked very closely with Rolex and deep sea divers as a tool to make their explorations and Rolex used this as a way of testing out their new watches and clearing up any kinks with regards to withstanding pressure. This watch is 2000 ft water resistant and superlative chronometer certified with an acrylic crystal. Tied for second place were the Sea-Dweller Submariners with double Red writing made in 1967 one with helium escape valve and one without helium escape valve achieved the price of $237,700. In a not to distant third place was The Rolex Milgauss made in 1957 with a black dial in stainless steel, reached the bargain price of only $190,400 including a buyers premium.

With record breaking prices like this, it just shows you to never underestimate the power of Rolex, who is constantly taking world records and making history!

pic courtesy of www.delgado@ferrari.ms

The Luxury Of Mobility

What Can I say, I am a real sucker for gadgetry. Besides a fine timepiece today, there are very few items that provide luxury on the move. We are at a point where we rely on our mobile phones more than anything else. In a way its become a world where we all flock like sheep to make that call or send that email on our phones, its all about the hear and now and instant gratification. So why not a $7,000 mobile phone.

Vertu, a luxury mobile phone company which is a subsidiary of Nokia came out of no where. Taking the basic fundamentals of mobile phone technologies, and wrapping the luxury and exclusivity around it, to make it that much more desirable, starting hitting fine watch retailers almost 5 years ago now. These phones manufactured in England, using only the finest skins, including calf, crocodile and various exotics have become highly sought after, and statements of status. One of the hottest phones that was released in Oct/Nov of last year was the Accent TI.

The body of this phone was inspired by the incredible architectural lines of some of the most revered super cars, and is constructed out of titanium for the most optimal strength to weight ratio. The engineering of the body consisting of two parts when welded together is absolutely seamless. This luxury phone is equipped with a three mega pixel auto focus camera, with the integration of flash lighting, a sapphire scratch resistant crystal protects the screen, the camera lens and flash is so hard that it has to be polished by diamond tipped tools. The incredible well finished key pad is individually lit from beneath creating the ultimate flood lit visibility in darkest of areas. One click and you have called upon your very own private 24 hour 7 days a week concierge service, allowing the ultimate in luxuries and services available.

How much more secret agent can you feel with another click of a button and you can back up from any part of the world, your phones data which is secured and maintained in an ex- military underground bunker in England. The ceramic ear pillow is only made out of the same ceramic used to protect the space shuttle. Vertu is only sold in the most well placed partners and boutiques around the worldm and is proving everyday that there is luxury in mobility!

pics courtesy of www.vertu.com

The Dutch Go Swiss

The problem with being a new watch brand today is that there is no history or DNA for enthusiasts or the watch industry to identify with. Lets face it people, to be a new successful watch brand today is anything but easily possible. One brand that I feel has some real potential is newcomer Cornelieus & Cie. This brand's founders, a duo from the Netherlands, Kees Engelbarts and Paul Pertijs, formed this company based on a long term friendship of more than 20 years that started at The Dutch Academy Of Gold And Silversmithing.

Kees started working as a master watch engraver in 1990 and was soon thereafter noted as one of The Best Watchmakers The World Has Ever Seen! He has engraved and skeletonized movements for the most prestigious watch brands including: Jaeger Le coultre, Hublot and The Ever so opulent Harry Winston. Paul, also being highly skilled and intelligent, was more the businessman running his fathers single jewelery shop and expanding it into several luxury boutiques. He had the sheer brilliance to found the company, Cornelieus & Cie, after witnessing what Kees had done making a one-of-a-kind watch using a 1935 A Shild movement.

The first watch rolled out by this duo was this year at Basel 2008, the Chromosome XY, which makes me think immediately of DNA. This ginormous beast of a watch has a 49mm case in either Rose Gold or Platinum. The dial is completely skeletonized and engraved by hand and the movement is an original A Shild movement which has been finished to a level of mastery I have seen in very few watches today. The watch when fully wound hones an 8 day power reserve and the eccentrically barrel is immediately shown through the unique shape of the case. I have to say its really interesting to me what this Dutch duo is doing in Switzerland!

pic courtesy of www.cornelius-cie.ch

Fly Me To The Moon

It has always amazed me how undervalued Omega is. This Swatch Group owned brand is really like the quality of Rolex at half the price. I have never really liked the overall aesthetics of Omega; in fact I find them really conservative and lifeless for the most part. But there is a watch I keep going back to in my mind and I hail as the best chronograph on the planet for the money: the Speedmaster Moon watch with the Lemania movement.

This watch is a stainless steel 40mm watch and was the first and only timepiece that went to the moon in 1965. The movement inside this watch was the Lemania 2310 or the Omega 321 movement. This movement was tested by NASA in 1965 and was reported to achieve the most incredible results. This movement was then replaced by Omega caliber 861 which was a sturdier more heavy duty movement which produced much better accuracy. Today this Lemania movement has been used by the best manufactured watch brands in the world with the likes of Patek Phillipe, Vacheron Constantin and Breguet in their chronographs which retail anywhere between $25,000 to $60,000 when finished to their specs.

Omega is still producing this Moon Watch made to their original specs with a black dial three register chronograph displaying hours and minutes of the chronograph and a subsecond hand for seconds, tachometer, an incredibly comfortable stainless steel bracelet and sapphire see through case back where the coveted hand wound Lemania movement can be admired for only $5,000 to $6,000. If you can't wait to stand in line anymore for the Stainless Steel Rolex Daytona and want a much better watch and value don't even think about it and get yourself a part of history that will make you feel like you went to the the moon!

pic courtesy of www.omega.com

Look How F.P. Journe Resonates

In 1999, now famed indie master watchmaker, Francis Paul Journe, emerged onto the watch scene. This Frenchman may as well have been a butcher if it weren't for his cousin who was the head of the watchmaking school in Marseilles, France. Seeing that Mr Journe was a bit devious in his school days he was expelled from school (which I can completely identify with),so his parents enrolled him in a watchmaking program headed up by his cousin. Amen to that. He is probably one of the most gifted, visionary watchmakers we have seen in the last 10 years. One of Mr Journe's inspirations was the resonance clock by Breguet which had two pendulums and two movements working simeltaneously achieving resonance and accuracy in harmony which he worked on himself. He was so inspired, in fact, that he decided to first make it into a pocket watch (which really didn't work out too well) and then almost one decade later the resonance wristwatch was born.

The Resonance Chronometer wrist watch is now available in either Platinum or Rose Gold at 40 mm with a 40 hour power reserve indicator and two of the most beautifully finished movements in one case viewed through a sapphire case back. Two separate dials next to each other for dual time travelling, a crown at 12 o'clock to independently adjust the hour hands of both clocks, a crown at 4 o'clock to adjust the seconds when pulled out resets both back to zero for flawless synchronization. Though Mr Journe doesn't work on the watches himself anymore, he is definitely the brains behind the research and development of this brands evolution. This brand is hella exclusive and only available at selected authorized retailers and F.P. Journe boutiques which resonates his message of detail, accuracy and refinement around the world!

pics courtesy of www.fpjourne.com

ITS ABOUT TIME FOR HISTORY!

Did You know that Rolex is a non profit organization? Thats right people, a huge portion of the money they earn goes to charities and orphanages in Switzerland, as well as keeping Switzerland Green.

In 1908 Rolex was founded by Hans Wilsdorf who was an orphan from Bavaria, he made sure that this name was easy to pronounce in many different languages as well as all the letters R O L E X were the same size providing symmetry when written. In the year 1944 shortly after the tragic death of his wife Mr Wilsdorf started the Hans Wildorf Foundation which he left all of his shares in ROLEX and made sure that a certain amount of money earned by Rolex would Go to charity leaving the company in trust so the company could not be bought, sold or traded. Mr Wilsdorf died in Geneva in the year 1960.

Today Rolex is the most recognizable watch brand in the world period! They are the best mass produced watch in the world with a production of slightly over one million watches per year.They are one of the few watches in the world today that retain at the very least 50% of their value some have really appreciated in value. I would say at least 80 percent or more of their watches are certified chronometers which is an accuracy test the watch goes through for 15 days in 15 nights in six different positions in various weather conditions.They use the highest grade of stainless steel for their watches which is 904L grade steel which is non corrosive. They have really set the bench mark for all other watch brands and today they still operate in trust the way Mr Wilsdorf had originally set it up, and just in case you were wondering NO! it is not a tax write off when you buy one!

pic courtesy of www.rolex.com